Saturday, April 30, 2011

And then there were none

The months of March and April are typically contemplated as a time of rebirth—winter transitions to spring; trees sprout new life; flowers start to bloom; birds, bugs, and critters shake off the effects of the dark, cold months; and we emerge from the shelter of our homes to plant gardens, play tennis, fly kites, and generally revel in the possibilities of another spring and summer—more exercise, great vacations, ice cream, barbeques.

The months of March and April, however, also bring different transitions.  On four occasions over the past 31 years, those months have brought the news that one of my grandparents has passed away.  Today (April 30, 2011), I lost my last grandparent.  Therefore, this blog will stray from the ‘I just moved to Ramallah’ storyline that had been established in order to take a moment to pay tribute to my parents’ parents.

Grandpa N: My father’s father passed away when I was in fourth grade.  My memories of him are driven as much from pictures of him and stories I’ve heard about him as anything else.  I remember that he had ‘his chair’ at his house.  It was a plush brown upholstered chair, as I remember it, and although it was designated for Grandpa, sitting in it did not bring punishment—instead, Grandpa would simply put you on his lap when he was ready to sit down.  I really only have three distinct memories of Grandpa and they are each in their own way a bit sad.  I remember at one of my birthday celebrations, Grandpa stumbled slightly when returning to his seat.  He wasn’t hurt, but it caused enough concern by my Grandma and parents that I, too, became worried about my Grandpa.  I think it was also my first stark realization that we are mortal beings and that age brings frightening realities that rarely occur to a 9 year old.  The second memory was answering the telephone one night when my parents were out.  My Grandma N was calling for my father.  I told her he wasn’t home, so she asked me to have him call her when he returned—Grandpa was sick.  I delivered the news and overheard my parents’ reaction when they called my Grandma to follow-up.  The news, in fact, was that my Grandpa had a stroke and was in the hospital.  He passed away a few weeks later.  My third memory is from his funeral.  It was an open casket funeral, and I remember looking at the body in the casket and not being able to render the tearful sadness that others around me were experiencing.  I tried and tried, but for some reason the tears would not come.  Soon, I was relieved of sitting in the room with the casket and instead was with my siblings and cousins in a different room.  Quickly, we were all laughing about something and generally having a good time.  In the back of my mind, I wondered if it was acceptable to be carrying on like this at a funeral.  Then my father came to check on us and was glad to see that we were having a good time.  “Grandpa would have loved to be here laughing with you; I’m glad you’re having a good time,” he said.

Grandma N:  My father’s mother passed away just days after Pope John Paul II died in April 2005.  Grandma N is a legendary woman.  Grandma lived in a three story house (with two rental units) for nearly 70 years, 25 of those years alone after Grandpa N passed away.  She was active at her church, St. James, kept a large garden, kept tabs on her 11 grandchildren and dozens of other family members and close friends, and hosted Christmas Eve gatherings for 20-odd people well into her 80s, never even considering that she might get tired after being on her feet cooking, serving, and cleaning for 8 or 10 hours.  Apart from Christmas Eve, growing up I was guaranteed to spend at least two days a year at Grandma’s house.  Each spring and fall, my father and I (and oftentimes, Uncle Red) would go to Grandma N’s house early on a Saturday morning for “Screens and Storms.”  My Grandmother’s house was built early in the 20th century and did not have many of the modern conveniences of new constructions.  In particular, the windows could accommodate either screens or storm windows, but not both.  In the cold winters, the storm windows help insulate against the cold weather and gusting north winds; during the hot summers, the screen windows allow for a fresh breeze to blow through the house without inviting in mosquitoes or other unwanted guests.  So, we would switch the configurations of each of the windows in the house and at the same time take a moment to clean the windows inside and out.  If there were fixes to make in the rental units, my father would tackle them at the same time.  Sometimes, during the fall screens and storms day, nearby Camp Randall would be hosting a Badger football game, and we could hear the 85,000 fans cheering every good play.  After finishing with the windows and other tasks, Grandma would serve us lunch.  And just before we left, Grandma would slip me a few dollars for my time.  Especially when I was in college, the meal and the money were a nice bonus on top of spending time with my father and grandmother.


Pop: My mother’s father passed away in March 2009 just as I was preparing to leave on a business trip to Jordan.  I held back tears on several occasions during that trip and knew that if I started to mention to my colleagues that my grandfather had just passed away, that I would fall apart—so I stayed quiet about it and excused myself from meetings when I felt my emotions getting away from me.  Pop was a wonderful man—he was funny, generous, irreverent, curious, kind, smart, and loving.  I have thousands of wonderful memories of Pop, so it’s difficult to narrow him down to a short blog entry.  He was a voracious reader and while I was serving in Peace Corps, he would clip articles from the newspaper that he read and thought would interest me.  He was an excellent pool player, and when he was in his mid 80s he met me and my friend, Dean, at a nearby billiards hall.  Dean belonged to a pool league and considered himself to be a good shot.  I gladly took a seat and watched the two of them play a few games.  Pop beat Dean each time, hobbling around the table on unsteady legs but still able to steady his shot and sink the ball with the touch that comes from growing up in the pool hall that his father owned.  Many years earlier, Pop, who was a bicyclist with a sticker on his bike that said, “Powered by Ole” (Ole was one of his nicknames) loaded his and a bike for my cousin Julie in his car and drove a few blocks from my parents’ house.  Then he and Julie finished the final two blocks of the journey on bike, claiming that they had in fact biked the entire 6 miles from his house to my parents’ house.  (Julie was probably no older than 12 and my grandfather was nearing 80; so it would not have been an impossible feat, but it would have been quite impressive.)  Late in life, Pop had a hard time with recent memories, but his long-term memory stayed strong and he loved to tell stories.  I remember one time in particular later in his life when he regaled me with stories that I had heard before but loved hearing again.  (My grandmother had heard the stories many more times than me and made her displeasure with the retelling known to me by rolling her eyes dramatically in the background.)  Soon, somehow, we transitioned from stories of his youth to the sitcom, Seinfeld, which he liked watching late at night, and I remember thinking how cool it was that my 90-some year old grandfather and I were sitting there riffing on Seinfeld.  At some point during that conversation, Pop’s age came up—he must have been around 95 years old.  He seemed truly astonished at this news, although it could have been the jokester in him, too, mocking surprise that he had lived nearly a century.  Either way, I remember him as always being young at heart and full of life.


G'ma O: My mother’s mother passed away earlier today.  I spent more time with her than any of my other grandparents, although that means that many of my memories of her are of helping with fairly routine daily tasks—driving her to the bank or pharmacy; helping her take out the garbage or move a box from one place to another; hanging a picture on her wall or watering the plants and trimming the shrubs.  One distinct memory that her and I often talked about over the years comes from my youth when I was learning to play the trumpet.  Grandma O was an excellent musician—she played piano with a natural, jazzy ease and she loved to perform.  So as I struggled to learn to play the trumpet, she was very encouraging.  One day, she decided that she would accompany me on a tune that I was learning and she knew well—Basin Street Blues.  Unfortunately, her natural ability to ad lib and jazz up a song conflicted with my strict interpretation of the written music and we were not able to find common ground on the song.  Over the following decades, though, I was more than content to listen to her play the piano.  Grandma loved playing and performing at family gatherings and seemed to relish her ability to make us dance to her music and applaud once she finished a tune.  My last visit with Grandma came over the Christmas holiday.  I found Grandma parked in her wheelchair in front of the television— “It’s a Wonderful Life” was playing.  I sat next to her and greeted her very deliberately so she could hear me over the television.  She gave me a friendly response, but obviously didn’t recognize me.  It took some time for me to explain exactly who I was, but once it sunk in, she was very happy to learn that I was part of her family.  My wife was also there, and Grandma was equally happy to ‘meet’ my wife and learn that we were married.  She asked if I knew her mother, and when I said I didn’t, she invited me to go visit her some time and mentioned that even she hadn’t seen her mother in a while.  We sat with her for an hour or so until she was taken to eat lunch.  I bid her farewell and she again reiterated how pleased she was to see me, and then she said that she would never forget meeting me.  I would like to think that was true; I know I certainly won’t forget her. 

Friday, April 29, 2011

Goodbye Baltimore (part II)

The story of our final hours in Baltimore warrants its own entry.  But first let me say that I never liked riding in taxis in Baltimore.  We didn’t use taxis often, but occasionally needed a taxi on the way out of town or upon our return.  My experiences by and large consisted of taxi drivers that:

·         Need directions – even to the airport, which should be a no-brainer for a taxi driver

·         Don’t follow directions – “turn left here…here!  Oh, never mind…”

·         Drive too fast – even between red lights, when driving 20 miles per hour or 40 miles per hour got you to your destination in the same amount of time

And the taxis rattle down the road and seem to be one pothole away from falling to pieces.  Despite the anxiety and frustration, the taxis had always accomplished the fundamental task of delivering us to our destination.  So, a few hours before we needed to leave for the airport on our last day together in Baltimore, I called a taxi service that claimed in their yellow pages listing to have vans.  I explained when I booked the taxi that we were transporting eight suitcases and a box—I was hand carrying several items to Ramallah and my darling was taking a few things to her family.  (She decided to spend some time with her family before joining me in Ramallah.)  A normal taxi car would not accommodate our load, but the taxi service confirmed they would send a van.

I requested the taxi arrive at 2pm.  My flight was at 4:30.  We gathered the suitcases and boxes at the front door just before 2pm, took a photo to capture the moment, and then watched out the front window for a van to arrive. 

2pm came and went, so I called the taxi service to check on the status of our van.  They said someone was on the way and would be at my house soon.  By 2:10 when the taxi still hadn’t arrived, I called the taxi service again.  The dispatcher nonchalantly repeated that someone was close to my house and would be there soon.  When I pointed out that I was on a tight schedule and had a flight to catch, they mentioned that perhaps I should have asked for the taxi to arrive at 1:45 if I wanted to leave by 2.  I politely explained that this suggestion was ridiculous and that they should have either explained this when I made the reservation or simply try harder to accommodate their customers’ requests.  By 2:15, I started calling other taxi services because I was losing faith that the original company would ever send a van.  My calls to the other taxi services left me more disappointed—they either didn’t have vans in their fleet (despite an ad in the yellow pages that sayes they do) or required 24 hours notice for the van.

Finally, at just after 2:20, a taxi arrived.  Not a van, though, as I had requested and required, but a standard sedan.  My frustration at this point led me to yelling at the driver for being late and for not driving a van.  He became defensive and said I shouldn’t yell at him because he is just doing his job.  Quickly, though, I turned my back on the driver and was back on the phone with the dispatcher, explaining that the car that showed up at my house was not adequate for transporting me and my things.  (At some point, the driver said he was "pretty sure" everything would fit in his car, although he had not even seen the amount of luggage we had.)

The taxi service dispatcher apologized and offered to try to find a van, but soon, a neighbor—with whom I’d only had a few short conversations over the years—came out of her house.  I’m not sure whether she heard the commotion or left her house to carry out other plans, but soon she was offering to drive us to the airport in her conversion van.  I waved the taxi driver off—frankly not sure why he was still waiting in front of my house—and ran up the steps to my house to start loading suitcases into my neighbor’s van.  In short order, we were on the way to the airport.  Our neighbor told us stories about her family and other people on our block while I let my blood pressure and overall anxiety wash away, trying also to enjoy one last drive on the streets of Baltimore before moving to Ramallah.  We arrived at the airport overwhelmingly grateful to have a neighbor who was willing to drop everything to drive us 30 minutes to the airport.   


After a quick photo, we rushed into the airport.  This was, I suppose, a fitting exit from Baltimore—a place full of contradiction, dysfunction, hope, and humanity.

Friday, April 22, 2011

Hello Ramallah

My darling wife and I splashed down in Ramallah within a couple of weeks of each other in early 2011.  As part of my relocation package, the organization I work for was willing to cover one month in a hotel to allow us time to find an apartment—luckily we only needed 29 days.  Here are some statistics from our apartment search:

·         We used the services of four different real estate agents

·         We looked at apartments ranging from $350/month to over $1500/month

·         We used three different web-based apartment listing services, including one entirely in Arabic, thanks to online translate tools

·         We looked at apartments over the course of four months, from November 2010 to February 2011

·         In total, we saw 43 apartments, with the very last apartment we saw being the one we live in now

Of the 43 apartments, very few met our basic criteria, which included location (close to downtown and my office), a garden or balcony, a decent price, overall condition (no mold, functional windows), and decent furniture.  One reason we used four different real estate agents is that none seemed to fully grasp what we wanted in an apartment, even though we spelled out our criteria to each of them.  Rather, they were showing us what they had available.  And we came to realize that landlords that rely on real estate agents are more likely to live outside of Ramallah and less likely to take proper care of their properties.
Odd bedroom arrangements were common:

And we saw apartments with troubling mold issues:

The search was disheartening at times, but we knew we would find something eventually.  Eventually we found two apartments that interested us—both through personal references rather than real estate agents.  One was located in a 2-year old villa.  It had nice furniture, a large kitchen, two bedrooms, one and a half bathrooms, and a small garden.  The price was a bit higher than we wanted to pay and the location was good, but not great. 

The other was located in a 3-year old apartment building.  The furniture was fine, the apartment wasn’t large, but the floor plan was well designed and the open kitchen helped make the main room feel large enough.  There were two bedrooms and two full bathrooms and a small balcony.  The location was better than the first apartment and the price seemed very reasonable.  Both were tempting options, and we found ourselves suddenly with a decision to make between two good apartments as opposed to the 40 less-than-adequate options we had previously seen.

Finally, we decided on the apartment with the better location and better price.  We would miss out on the small garden, but we would also save $100 per month and be closer to “the action” as I called it and as my darling likes to tease me about.  We’ve been here two months now, and other than an occasional mosquito singing into our ears at night, things are working out very well here. 

We have a spare bedroom for guests and would love to show people around Ramallah.  We’re an easy 15 minute walk from just about anything you’d want to see or do in Ramallah: the old city, the hottest Thursday night clubs, several good restaurants, and the local movie theater.  Come help us enjoy the fruits of our apartment searching labor!

Friday, April 15, 2011

Goodbye Baltimore

Three months have passed since I bid farewell to the city that I have called home longer than any other place except for the city of my birth and primary education.  After jumping from city to city every year or two for nearly a decade, I moved to Baltimore in 2005 with a beautiful woman who would become my wife two years later.  Moving to Baltimore meant settling into a great new job at an organization that values its employees and also allowed me to buy my first house, which was a distant goal living in Washington DC during the strong housing market of the early 2000s.  And yet, for some strange reason, even though I was with a woman I loved, engaged in fulfilling work, and living in a house I owned (or co-owned with Wells Fargo), it took me several years to embrace Baltimore as “home.”
But eventually Baltimore did feel like home.  I became familiar with the city by biking more than 10,000 miles in and around Baltimore, befriending vendors at the local weekly farmer’s market, participating in local races, and discovering why some people dub Baltimore as “Smalltimore” after seeing the same familiar faces at events, festivals, and restaurants. 

And then, near the end of last summer, I learned about an opportunity to work on a new youth development program in Palestine.  I went to Ramallah for three busy days of meetings in early August and left the West Bank intrigued and fascinated by this place--and I wanted to learn more about it.  I talked it over with my darling wife and she agreed that it was a compelling opportunity.
By late October, the move to Ramallah was set and preparations to leave Baltimore began.  My darling wife and I started trying to figure out what to do with a household full of our treasures, and also developed a long list of fixes—big and little—to tackle around the house.  After a post-Thanksgiving trip to Palestine with my darling to make sure it was somewhere she wanted to live, we started making slow but steady progress on the transition.  But we quickly realized that many aspects of a move inevitably crash on top of each other closer to the end than the beginning of the process.  (You can’t pack up clothes you need to continue wearing; you can’t pack a kitchen that you still need to cook in.)
We met with dozens of different potential service providers—movers, insurance providers, property managers, house repair companies, lead testing companies, etc.—and the pieces started coming together.  Just before Christmas, we held a moving sale hoping to catch the attention of last minute holiday shoppers looking for a bargain.  We sold a few bookcases and CDs, but it wasn't the retail splash we hoped it would be.


After the new year, I stopped going to the office for almost full two weeks to concentrate exclusively on household fixes, painting, cleaning-up, multiple trips to Goodwill, several trips to the dump (nothing like a move to shed light on the value of 'treasures' kept around the house and in the garage), trips to the hardware store, and packing.  The movers came to pack everything in mid-January, after which time me and my darling wife stayed with friends at night and went to the house during the day to continue cleaning, fixing, painting, etc.  
Finally, although the to-do list was not completely done, it was time for me to fly to Tel Aviv en route to Palestine and for my darling to go to her hometown to spend time with her family before moving 7,000 miles away.  I expected the flight to Tel Aviv to offer me relief, knowing that I had spent several months preparing for the move and that there was nothing more I could do.  Instead, my head was spinning as I continued to go through lists of pending tasks: I needed to finalize my new house insurance contract, complete insurance forms for the items I was storing and shipping, sign the contract with the property management company, and complete paperwork for the city to certify that my house was “lead safe” and that it was now a rental unit.  Plus, I left behind unfinished projects at the house—painting, replacing cabinet doors we had removed, replacing a bedroom door we had also removed, final cleaning, etc.  My darling would be left with managing that burden before she joined me in Palestine.  She valiantly finished off those projects, of course, and joined me in Ramallah roughly three weeks after I arrived.  The story of our search for new housing is next…